Ekupheleni kweminyaka yawo-1980, i-wine master uRosemary George yabhala incwadi enhle kakhulu ethi Chianti kanye neWines of Tuscany, engiyincoma kakhulu kunoma ubani onentshisekelo kumawayini ase-Italy. Lapho ngiqala ukulifunda, ngashaywa yinto eyodwa: Noma nini lapho ethinta inkinga enameva, isibonelo, ukusebenzisa okuthiwa "amagilebhisi avumelekile" (amagilebhisi angaphezu kweTuscan njengeCabernet, i-Merlot, noma yini) ukunikeza i-Chianti i-flavour more international, uhlale ecaphuna uPaolo de Marchi waseTuscany ohlonishwayo we-Isole e Olena isivini.
Ngenkathi ngenza ucwaningo ngendleleni esifundeni saseChianti Classico, ngahlangana naye futhi ngaqonda ukuthi kungani. UPaolo nomkakhe, uMarta, bangabantu ababili abahloniphekile engibaziyo; evulekile kakhulu futhi ezimisele ngempela ukuthatha isikhathi sokusiza abantu. Uphinde uthathwa njengomunye wabakhiqizi bewayini abakhulu abayishumi emhlabeni. Imicabango yakhe icatshangwa ngokucophelela futhi yenza umqondo omkhulu. Futhi yebo, baye bashintsha kancane kusukela ekhuluma noRosemary ngencwadi yakhe.
Ngaleso sikhathi, uPaolo wayelokhu ejabule ngethemba lokusebenzisa amagilebhisi angaphezu kwe-Tuscan ukwengeza ubuciko nokukhanya kuChianti Classico, futhi lokhu kudinga ukubeletha okufutshane. Nakuba indawo ephakathi kukaFlorence neSiena ihlale iveza amawayini ahle kakhulu, lapho uBaron Bettino Ricasoli enza uhlelo lweChianti Classico ngawo-1850, wasebenzisa iSangiovese, amagilebhisi amakhulu obomvu eTuscany, kanti amanye amaCanaiolo Toscano (elinye lamagilebhisi abomvu, amcasula iSangiovese) .
Nakuba amawayini ayengcono kakhulu futhi anqoba izindondo, ayefuna ukuguga, ngakho waqala iwayini elilungele ukuphuza elihlanganisa noMalvasia del Chianti, umvini omhlophe.
Ngeshwa, iKhomishini eyakha i-DOC esifundeni saseChianti Classico yamukela i-formula yokugcina kanye nabakhiqizi abaphoqelelwe ukuba bafake amagilebhisi amhlophe emavinini abo; iningi lewayini elakhiwe ngokwemithetho lalibi, isithombe seChianti sihluphekile, futhi abaningi abakhiqizi abangcono baqala ukuhlola ama-Sandiovese neCabernet noma ezinye izinhlobo zemagilebhisi angaphandle - isibonelo, u-Antinori wakhula uTignanello, uSangiovese- I-Cabernet ingxube ebizwa nge-Vino da Tavola (iwayini letafula, isigaba esiphansi) ngoba ayifanelekeli isimo se-DOC.
Ngokushesha wonke umuntu wayezama amawayini ahlukile kule migqa, futhi abaningi babenezela amaphesenti amancane eCabernet noma eMerlot ku-Chianti Classico yabo ukuze banikeze ukunambitheka okungaphezu kwamanye amazwe. UPaolo watshala isivini saseCabernet, "okuyingxenye yokuthi izwe lalinelungelo lamagilebhisi eCabernet, futhi ngenxa yokuthi wonke umuntu wayekwenza." Ekuqaleni wayecabanga ukuthi usebenzisa iCabernet ukuthuthukisa umzimba nombala weChianti Classico yakhe, kodwa wanquma ukuthi iCabernet yayizonqoba iSangiovese (unayo iphuzu; eziningi zeChiantis ezineCabernet zinezici ezihlukile of underbrush in bouquets zabo).
Ekugcineni wagcina ukuthi umvini omuhle wokuncoma uSangiovese ungumSyra, umvini omuhle waseFrance ovela eMfuleni waseRhone, watshala amahektare ambalwa. Kodwa-ke, ngenkathi isivini sesifika ekukhiqizeni, wayenombono wesibili mayelana nomqondo wokusebenzisa amagilebhisi ahambisanayo: "Kudingeka babuyiselwe," usho kanje. Amandla e-Tuscany, afana nelinye isifunda sokukhiqiza iwayini, aphethwe yi-typicality of the wine, izici eziyingqayizivele ezenza iwayini lingabonakali kahle. " Lezi zici zivela ngokuyinhloko emvinini waseSangiovese, futhi manje sesifinyelele esiphethweni sokuthi amaTuscans kumele asebenze ngama-Sangiovese clones (i-clone iyinhlobonhlobo yamagilebhisi), ukhethe kuphela labo abakhiqiza amagilebhisi amahle kakhulu ukuze bakhiqize amawayini angcono kakhulu .
Ngokombono wakhe, isihluthulelo sokukhiqiza iwayini lekhwalithi isebenza esivini; kwenzekani ku-winery emva kokuvuna kuyesibili. Kungumvini obala.
Inkolelo kaPaolo ngokubaluleka kokufaniswa kwewayini akuyona nje inyoka; uyathumela kumazwe angama-26 (ekugcineni), esebenzile eCalifornia, uye wavakashela u-Australia ngokuphindaphindiwe, futhi wayenambitha amawayini avela emhlabeni wonke.
I-Australia inezinsiza ezinkulu, iChile inezindleko eziphansi kakhulu zomsebenzi, njengoba kwenza iNingizimu Afrika neMpumalanga Yurophu inqwaba engaziwa engase ibe yindawo enkulu yokulala. Njengoba ekhomba, cishe wonke umuntu angafaka iwayini "lamazwe ngamazwe" eneqhaza elikhulu leCabernet namanye amagilebhisi, futhi enze umsebenzi omuhle kakhulu; abakhiqizi baseTuscan abalandela le ndlela ngomzamo wokubheka ukunambitheka kwamanye amazwe bangazithola bethengiswa ngemakethe ngoba izindleko zabo ziphakeme kakhulu kunezo zincintisana ezikwazi ukuqasha abasebenzi abashisayo noma ukuthengiswa kwemishini.
Uma, esikhundleni salokho, basebenza ukukhiqiza amawayini angcono kakhulu aseTuscan kungenzeka, bazokhiqiza into ehlukile yabo, futhi okuzohlale kufunwa ngabachwepheshe.
Ungase uzibuze, ngalesi sikhathi, ukuthi yini uPaolo enza ngamagilebhisi ezivini zakhe zaseCabernet naseSyrah. Yenza iwayini, elibhalela uColzione De Marchi. Kukhona iKabernet Collezione De Marchi, eyinqobe ye-Gambero Rosso eyayikufisa ama-goblets amathathu nama-Parker izikolo ezingaphezu kwezingu-90, i-L'Eremo, iSyrah eyabeka izinkathazo ezine okwesiboni eminyakeni embalwa eyedlule, ngemuva kwezintathu ezinkulu zeRhone Valley, neChardonnay I-Collezione De Marchi, i-Chardonnay enesibhadla esivunyelwe ukuthi uPaolo akagculiswanga ngokuphelele, "nakuba kuqhubeka ngcono minyaka yonke."
Ngakolunye uhlangothi, i-Isole e-Olena ilebula, igcinelwe amawayini aseTuscan ayendabuko ongayilindela indawo engaphansi kwesifunda saseChianti Classico. Kukhona i-Chianti Classico, eyenziwe cishe ngama-80% eSangiovese, eCanaiolo, futhi (uma unyaka udinga) kuze kube ngu-5% eSyrah. Khona-ke kukhona uCepparello, "lokho okushiwo yi-Isole e-Olena," iwayini eliyisipesheli elingu-100% elingu-Sangiovese elihle kakhulu elizobe liyi-Paolo's Chianti Classico Riserva. Ikhomishana yeDOC yavumela i-Chianti Classico ukuba yenziwe ku-Sangiovese kuphela. Manje ukuthi i-Chianti Classico ingenziwa kuphela ku-Sangiovese, sizobona ukuthi uPaolo unquma. Okokugcina, kukhona iwayini le-Vinsanto, i-Tuscany yendabuko yokwamukelwa nokuhlelekile, eyenziwa ngamagilebhisi amhlophe (Malvasia naseTrbibiano) okutholwa ekuqaleni kokuvuna, avunyelwe ukuba abune omisiwe, agxiliwe ngoJanuwari, bese kuthi umgqomo-uphethwe futhi ugugile iminyaka engama-4 ngaphambi kokufaka ibhodlela. Izithelo zikaPaolo zincane kakhulu, futhi i-Vinsanto yakhe ibhekwa njengenye yewayini eliphezulu lewayini le-dessert.
Izivakashi zamukelekile e-Isole e-Olena, nakuba ungafanele ulindele ukuthi abantu bayeke lokho abakwenzayo lapho ufika ngaphandle kokuthi ubize phambili ukwenza i-aphoyintimenti; Ngesikhathi sokuqala ngayahamba ngathola abantu abambalwa bekulungisa i-trailer ene-arc-welder egcekeni ("amadwala ehlanzayo ashaya isihogo ngaphandle kwemishini"), futhi wagcina eseya esivini esisha (kuyo yonke indawo, ifa unamahektare angaba ngu-100 wezivini) noPiero Masi, umphathi wezindlu, ukubona ukuthi izinto ziza kanjani.
Ukuze ufinyelele i-Isole e-Olena, thatha umgwaqo omkhulu ukusuka eFlorence ukuya eSiena, uphume e-San Donato; ushayela i-San Donato esedlule, uye e-Castellina, bese uphendukela ngakwesokudla uma ufika uphawu lweSpedi. Umgwaqo, okwamanje udwebekile, ungenye yezizathu uPaolo akenzi ngazo i-Agritourism: "Ngangiqashise ikamelo ngesonto, kanyekanye," wangitshela. "Umfana ube neBentley. Wagijima lapho ehamba waya endlini, wahamba waya eFlorence ekuseni." Esinye isizathu? "Kungathatha isikhathi emavinini ami."
[Ehlelwe nguDanette St. Onge]